The Timeless Charms of Aizu: Mukaitaki Ryokan, Higashiyama Hot Springs

A piece of calligraphy by Noguchi Hideyo. The text reads, “Beautiful sake, fine food.” Noguchi left the comment as an expression of appreciation for the hospitality received during his stay at the inn with his mother, Shika.

The bath in the stateroom where Noguchi Hideyo and Koizumi Jun’ichirō stayed. The interior has been remodeled several times since the room was added on in the early twentieth century, but the exterior remains unchanged.

The symbols of Aizu: Tsurugajō Castle (left) and the graves of the White Tiger Battalion

Mukaitaki in winter

Mukaitaki in early summer

The entrance hallway, redolent with 140 years of history

The mistress of the inn, Hirata Machiko

The inner courtyard lit with candles for snow viewing. Hirata introduced the idea in 2001 as a way for guests to enjoy the Aizu snowscape. The bamboo casings are all handmade.

An employee replaces burnt-out candles in the sub-zero temperatures.

The inner courtyard in summer

The freshly polished hallway

The gleaming stairs

Kitsuneyu, Mukaitaki’s oldest bath

Sarunoyu, the communal bath

Sweet steamed carp—a local delicacy—served with a bottle of the inn’s own sake, named after the message in Noguchi Hideyo’s calligraphy.