Mirasaka Fromage: World-Class Cheese from Hiroshima’s Hills

Rather than driving them, he lets the cows head for the hills at their own speed. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Matsubara cleared the pasture himself. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

A goat eating chestnuts from Matsubara’s hand. This plot has not only chestnuts but plentiful other growing things like mushrooms, knotweed, and bamboo grass. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Donut, a candidate for stud bull. All of the animals are named after sweets. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

The Mirasaka Fromage café and shop attached to his cheese studio has become a destination for tourists in search of cheese and goat’s milk soft-serve ice cream. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Checking the maturation of Chevre Frais. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Wrapping Fromage du Mirasaka, one of the dairy’s flagship products, in oak leaves. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

At left is Fuji Sumi, a cheese shaped like Mount Fuji that reflects Matsubara’s playfulness. It uses goat cheese pressed into a mountain shaped mold, then sprinkled with charcoal for maturing. Right is maturing Akashōbin, a red cheese christened after the Japanese name for the ruddy kingfisher that decorates its sales label. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Masanori married Kunie, who now manages the shop, during his forestry days. He says, “We used to tour several farms on our dates.” (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Matsubara with his second son, Luka, at front center, who holds his award certificate from the fourteenth All Japan Natural Cheese Contest, where he won silver. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Clockwise from top right: At top is the WCA top prize winner Akashōbin; under that is Reblochon, another washed-rind cheese; goat milk Fujisan Sumi; a hung and smoked Scamorza; Mirasaka Tatin made with local akibae apples; and yogurt. All products are sold at Mirasaka Fromage. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)