Haliyo Kaki Vinegar: Letting Nothing Go to Waste

The clear waters of the Tsuyagawa (a tributary of the Ibi River). Itō’s affection for the local rivers is reflected in the name of her company, Rivercresc (from crescendo). (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

The sight of persimmons ripening on the boughs is part of the rural scenery in many areas of Japan. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

A small deer put in an appearance during our visit. Keeping out animal visitors is a never-ending challenge for cultivators in areas with dwindling human populations. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

By the entrance to the fermenting shed. The building was originally used as a warehouse, and when Itō first rented it, had no running water or electricity, and no toilet facilities. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Persimmons waiting to be processed (left). To the untutored eye, it’s not easy to see why these specimens failed the selection process. (© Ukita Yasuyuki) At right, local women processing the persimmons. Area farmers help out during harvest and at other busy times of year. (© Itō Yuki)

Persimmon vinegar in the fermentation tanks. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

A thin film of acetic acid can be seen on top of the developing vinegar. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

The striking packaging for Haliyo Kaki Vinegar. Every bottle displays the year of production, since different “vintages” vary subtly in flavor. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

At left, kaki vinegar aging in jars. Itō wants to see if her vinegar becomes more valuable after aging, like balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy. At right, a sauternes barrel, used in Itō’s cask-finishing series to impart hints of the “noble rot” flavors of this famous sweet wine from Bordeaux. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Tasting the vinegar. The pipette is a reminder of Itō’s chemistry background. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Some of the kaki vinegar is “finished” in casks previously used to age wine, whisky, and other beverages. From left: French oak, sherry, bourbon, and sauternes. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

“Coffee” made from persimmon seeds. The drink has a pleasant depth of flavor to balance out the coffeelike bitterness. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Haliyo Curry: a pork vindaloo, with kaki vinegar. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

A cutting board and spoons made from processed persimmon wood. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

A lampshade made from persimmon wood, on sale at the factory shop in Kaizu. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

Itō is working to make the yōhō variety more widely available again. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)

During the first year, Itō was so stressed about whether she would have a usable product that she started to lose her hair. “Things are much more relaxed now,” she says with a smile. (© Ukita Yasuyuki)