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“Moyashiya”: Japan’s Centuries-Old Merchants of “Kōji” Mold

  • Sukeno Akihiko, president of Hishiroku, explains the history of seed kōji makers. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Sukeno Akihiko, president of Hishiroku, explains the history of seed kōji makers. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Sukeno carefully thumbs through the old list of makers in a document of the forerunner to today’s National Seed Kōji Association. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Sukeno carefully thumbs through the old list of makers in a document of the forerunner to today’s National Seed Kōji Association. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Photo of the Hishiroku store, most-likely taken either in the Meiji (1868–1912) or Taishō (1912–26) era. The signboard (written right to left) bears the logo for Hishiroku, the description kōji-moyashi, and the word for “origin,” perhaps a reference to the role of kōji as the root of Japanese food culture. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

    Photo of the Hishiroku store, most-likely taken either in the Meiji (1868–1912) or Taishō (1912–26) era. The signboard (written right to left) bears the logo for Hishiroku, the description kōji-moyashi, and the word for “origin,” perhaps a reference to the role of kōji as the root of Japanese food culture. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

  • The shop still displays the old signboard, clearly showing the signs of 100 years of weathering. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    The shop still displays the old signboard, clearly showing the signs of 100 years of weathering. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • The copy of the document from 1769 in Sukeno’s safekeeping. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    The copy of the document from 1769 in Sukeno’s safekeeping. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • The name “Hishiroku” is legible on the third line. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    The name “Hishiroku” is legible on the third line. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • The area beyond the curtain is the kōji-muro, the room where the kōji is produced. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

    The area beyond the curtain is the kōji-muro, the room where the kōji is produced. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

  • Rice is cooked in a large drum-shaped steamer in preparation for the addition of the mold. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

    Rice is cooked in a large drum-shaped steamer in preparation for the addition of the mold. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

  • Kōji mold is cultivated in the kōji-muro, which is kept at a temperature of 30°C and 98% humidity. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Kōji mold is cultivated in the kōji-muro, which is kept at a temperature of 30°C and 98% humidity. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • The finished seed kōji. Dense growth of kōji mold spores is visible on the rice. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

    The finished seed kōji. Dense growth of kōji mold spores is visible on the rice. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

  • Seed kōji differs in color due to the different strains of mold used, chosen according to their intended application. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Seed kōji differs in color due to the different strains of mold used, chosen according to their intended application. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Green and white seed kōji in grain (left) and powder form. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

    Green and white seed kōji in grain (left) and powder form. (Courtesy Sukeno Akihiko)

  • A selection of Hishiroku’s products. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    A selection of Hishiroku’s products. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Sukeno believes efforts to raise awareness about kōji are paying off. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Sukeno believes efforts to raise awareness about kōji are paying off. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Some tourists have been attracted to the shop due to its charming exterior. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Some tourists have been attracted to the shop due to its charming exterior. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

  • Sukeno stands by the curtain at his store’s entrance, which bears the Hishiroku logo. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

    Sukeno stands by the curtain at his store’s entrance, which bears the Hishiroku logo. (© Kuroiwa Masakazu of 96-Box)

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