“Ryōtei” Culture Lives at Kyoto’s Kōdaiji Wakuden

The ryōtei’s quest for perfection begins in the morning, when the entire staff joins in cleaning the building and grounds from top to bottom.

Even the tassels on the floor cushions are carefully groomed.

The tatami mats are wiped repeatedly with a dry cloth.

Each morning the staff opens the rooms to the surrounding gardens.

A traditional irori hearth forms the centerpiece of this Japanese-style dining room.

In the winter, the garden is strewn with pine straw to protect and nourish the moss.

The front entrance to Kōdaiji Wakuden. (© Kōdaiji Wakuden)

At Kōdaiji Wakuden, letting the ingredients shine is a key culinary principle. This dish accentuates the gelatinous texture for which junsai, an edible water plant, is prized. (© Kōdaiji Wakuden)

Wakuden no Mori, in the Kumihama district of Kyōtango.

Wakuden proprietress Kuwamura Yūko.