Hanten and Festival Stalls: Bringing Color and Vibrancy to the Festival

By noon on Saturday May 19, 2012, the ujiko from the 44 neighborhoods had gathered with their mikoshi in a lot behind the Buddhist temple Sensōji. The shrine bearers are proudly wearing the special hanten coats, each one emblazoned with a unique design showing the wearer’s neighborhood and organization affiliation. The colorful hanten turn the area into a blaze of color and are a photographer’s dream.

Another essential part of the fun at any Japanese festival are the stalls selling food and games. The Sanja Matsuri is no exception, with a mind-boggling variety of stalls crammed into the grounds of Sensōji. Some of the stalls are classics found at every matsuri in Japan—such as kingyo sukui, where children try to scoop goldfish from a small pool with a paper spoon, and stalls hawking common matsuri snacks like takoyaki (fried octopus) and cotton candy. Other stalls feature Sanja Matsuri specialties, like refreshing anzu ame (candied apricots), skewers of iced cucumber, and delicious salted ayu (sweet fish).

(Originally written in Japanese by Hirose Tatsuya. Photographs by Yamada Shinji, Kodera Kei, Hanai Tomoko.)

The three main “mikoshi” (Ichi no Miya, Ni no Miya, and San no Miya) leave Asakusa Shrine at the start of their tour of the 44 neighborhoods of Asakusa.
The three main “mikoshi” (Ichi no Miya, Ni no Miya, and San no Miya) leave Asakusa Shrine at the start of their tour of the 44 neighborhoods of Asakusa.
A mass of people looking for a chance to help carry one of the three main “mikoshi.” As many as 3,000 people crowd round each “mikoshi,” fighting to get as close to the action as possible.
A mass of people looking for a chance to help carry one of the three main “mikoshi.” As many as 3,000 people crowd round each “mikoshi,” fighting to get as close to the action as possible.
Barricades are set up to ensure no one gets hurt in the chaos.
Barricades are set up to ensure no one gets hurt in the chaos.
The “mikoshi” lurches violently as the team of bearers loses its balance for a moment.
The “mikoshi” lurches violently as the team of bearers loses its balance for a moment.
The three “mikoshi” leave Asakusa Shrine.
The three “mikoshi” leave Asakusa Shrine.
In front of the main prayer hall at the Buddhist temple Sensōji.
In front of the main prayer hall at the Buddhist temple Sensōji.
Passing through the Nakamise.
Passing through the Nakamise.
Saitō is the head of the Uma San-Chōkai neighborhood association. “We don’t have many kids in our neighborhood most of the time, but when the festival comes round all the youngsters who’ve moved away after getting married come back with their families. Everyone makes a special effort to be here for the festival.”
Saitō is the head of the Uma San-Chōkai neighborhood association. “We don’t have many kids in our neighborhood most of the time, but when the festival comes round all the youngsters who’ve moved away after getting married come back with their families. Everyone makes a special effort to be here for the festival.”
A team of shrine bearers waits for the “mikoshi” to arrive at Asakusa Uma San-Chōkai, one of the 12 neighborhoods of the Eastern Division.
A team of shrine bearers waits for the “mikoshi” to arrive at Asakusa Uma San-Chōkai, one of the 12 neighborhoods of the Eastern Division.
The Ichi no Miya arrives in Uma San-Chōkai at 12:10 on the afternoon of May 20.
The Ichi no Miya arrives in Uma San-Chōkai at 12:10 on the afternoon of May 20.
The atmosphere reaches fever pitch as the bearers come together in a solid mass.
The atmosphere reaches fever pitch as the bearers come together in a solid mass.
The head of the Uma San-Chōkai association leads the team of bearers in a round of ceremonial clapping.
The head of the Uma San-Chōkai association leads the team of bearers in a round of ceremonial clapping.
An imposing tengu demon leads the way, representing the god Saruta Hiko no Mikoto, who welcomed the gods to earth in early myths.
An imposing tengu demon leads the way, representing the god Saruta Hiko no Mikoto, who welcomed the gods to earth in early myths.
Relaxed smiles after the neighborhood procession concludes without incident.
Relaxed smiles after the neighborhood procession concludes without incident.
A “mikoshi” passing under the Kaminarimon Gate at the entrance to the temple Sensōji. After their tour of the 44 neighborhoods, the three main “mikoshi” are returned to Asakusa Shrine on Sunday evening.
A “mikoshi” passing under the Kaminarimon Gate at the entrance to the temple Sensōji. After their tour of the 44 neighborhoods, the three main “mikoshi” are returned to Asakusa Shrine on Sunday evening.
A procession passes under the torii gate into the precincts of Asakusa Shrine, led by Shintō priests.
A procession passes under the torii gate into the precincts of Asakusa Shrine, led by Shintō priests.
The San no Miya is returned to its storage place after its procession is completed.
The San no Miya is returned to its storage place after its procession is completed.