The Endangered Appeal of Japanese Eel

Roswell Hosoki was born in 1956 in Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture. He debuted as a manga artist in 1983. Many of his works feature alcoholic drinks and snacks that go well with them. His most famous work, published by Nihon Bungeisha, is titled Sake no hose michi (The Narrow Road of Alcohol). Was appointed the “tourism ambassador” of Yonezawa in 2010.

One of the four published volumes of the manga U.

The key to flavor at established restaurants is the well-aged sauce in which the eel is repeatedly dipped during grilling. (Photograph by Katō Takemi taken at the Maekawa eel restaurant in Tokyo’s Taitō Ward.)

Fujioka Shōtarō, the main character of the manga u, in a scene expressing his amazement at how different the eel preparation styles are in Tokyo and Osaka—© Roswell Hosoki/Kōdansha.

“There is all sorts of eel cuisine around the world,” says Roswell, “but nothing beats the kabayaki style of preparation in my mind.”