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Iida Yūta, the sixth-generation owner of Iidaya, in the plentifully stocked suribachi earthenware mortar section. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)
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Using a surikogi wooden pestle in a circular motion to grind sesame seeds. (© Pixta)
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The most popular suribachi at Iidaya. The wide, nonslip base gives it stability. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)
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The suribachi ease to use comes from the kushime comb-pattern grooves, combining beauty and function. They are embossed on less expensive types, while the ones hand-carved by artisans have sharper edges that make grating easier. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)
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The density of the sanshō wood makes it ideal for grinding. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)