How to Drink in Shinjuku’s Golden-gai Like a Regular

The dimly lit stairs to the second-floor bar Nabe-san are an intimidating climb for first-time visitors to Golden-gai.

Bar Miki exudes a quieter feeling that makes it relatively easy to approach.

Yellowed strips of paper constitute the menu at Nabe-san. Prices are nowhere to be seen.

At Bar Miki, customers can sip while enjoying the artworks on the wall.

The dance school where Suspiria is set inspired Cambiare’s décor.

Pizza is prepared on the spot.

Despite the climb up spooky stairs, Nabe-san, one of Golden-gai’s most venerable bars, is always packed.

The night is filled with the loud talk and laughter of tipsy patrons.