Tokyo Mugicha: A Traditional Roasted Barley Taste Enjoyed for Over 80 Years

Kawahara Wataru, the third-generation owner of Kawahara Seifun Mill. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Teabags may sell better (left), but the flavor of loose roasted barley grains (right) is richer, even if it does take a little more time to brew. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

A large iron cylinder filled with sand is rotated above blazing flames within the oven, and barley is fed into that cylinder to be roasted. The roastmaster monitors the barley as it roasts, constantly adjusting the heat and amount of grain being fed into the oven. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Sand-roasted (below) and hot-air roasted barley. The difference in size is clearly visible. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Plumes of steam rising from the barley after it has been roasted a second time. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Checking the roasted grains. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Adjusting the temperature and timing while overseeing the roasting. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

Many local customers purchase the large economy-size bags. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

The bricks laid by Kawahara’s father and grandfather. (© Nomura Kazuyuki)

(© Nomura Kazuyuki)